Swimming Pupaes…



The swedish pattern Superpuppan have always been my weapon of choice for swimming caddis pupaes. Some species of caddis rises to the surface and swims to find something to hatch on.
I thought it was time for a change and after being inspired by the works of Matt Grobert I designed this one. The fish can sometimes lock itself totally on the swimming pupaes, even when adults are abundant. I hope this will do the job just as well as the Superpuppan. The key element is the front of the fly which should cause a lot of movement. I don´t think it matters wheter or not you add the antennas, but they do look nice in the box. I think the trigger on this fly is movement.
Pattern as follows:

Hook: Your choice
Rear abdomen: Synthetic dubbing mixed with hares ear
Front: CdC spun with a peacock herl

Elk Hair Caddis…

I don´t think my last post on the Elk Hair Caddis did this fantastic fly justice. Al Troth is the man behind this extremely popular dry fly. Even if I tie this fly in many different versions, I always find the original the best one. It floats very well and is easy to see on the water. This fly should be a staple in all boxes. It is a durable and perfect dry fly for both trout and grayling in most waters around the world.

Nalle Puh…



The Nalle Puh was designed by the finnish architect Simo Lumme in 1969. Lumme is one of the pioneers in scandinavian fly fishing. The name of the fly means Winnie the Pooh in finnish.  He designed the fly for the fast flowing rivers of Finland. The style of the wings is meant to mimic the egg laying caddis with its fluttering wings.

The Klinkhamer…

Most of you know Hans Van Klinken and his flies. His designs are a staple in many fly boxes. One of his best flies is The Klinkhamer. I tie this fly in a bunch of different variants. I wanted to present a few of them in this post. The fly can imitate many different insects and it can play the role of an attractor.
Depending on size and style of tying you can freely experiment with this pattern.

Here is the more standard version with a thinly dubbed body. This works as a mayfly.


If you tie it with a more scruffy and bulky body it functions as a caddis emerger.


Here is one of my own variants. I use it during hatches of some of the larger mayflies in Norway.


A few years ago while sitting on the banks of the river Rena in Norway I tied The Red Tag Klink. It works extremely well as an attractor for grayling.


Here with a peacock quill body. In small sizes this is a good midge fly.


Here with a ribbing of organza to mimic the hatching caddis.

The Mop Caddis…


I was walking, almost like a zombie, through a store that I had no interest in the other day when I saw very green thing in the corner of my eye. I was thinking bodies for caddis immediately. The thing I saw is some sort of mop for dusting. I just cut one of and burn it lightly to shape the body. Then I use Pantone to add colour. I´m going to make peeping caddis out of this “material” as well. The thing was set to about one dollar…and there are lots of bodies on it.


A farewell to a material…


A Rakkelhane Variant. Hackle from partridge and antennas of moose mane.


The original Rakkelhane. Very famous scandinavian caddis pattern.


This is the last inches of the faboulus poly-yarn by Staffan Lindstrøm. It has been a key element in my fly tying since the 80´s. It is no longer available. This was the first modern material I had in my box and is partly responsible for making me a modern fly tyer.

I will use these last inches very carefully…


This pattern goes by many names. That´s why I name it X-Caddis. It is originally meant to be an emerger. A very effective fly and it will do the job in many different situations. It is also a great fish-finder. What material you choose for the wing is free of choice. These are my variants.


The X-Caddis with a wing of snowshoe rabbit.


The X-Caddis with a wing of Cdc and lemon wood duck.


The X-Caddis with yearling elk.


The X-Caddis with deer hair.

The caddis & the mayfly…


These are two Jack Gartside patterns. They are tied to imitate emerging insects. As I have mentioned earlier he used aftershafts in many of his flies. Aftershafts are not the easiest material to use. Keep in mind that the aftershaft feather has a very fragile stem. If you find it difficult you can try using a electric gripping tool rather than a traditional hackle plier. They are also called EZ pliers. Always use a fairly gentle touch when winding these feathers.


This is the Philo Mayfly Emerger.


This is the Philo Caddis Emerger. This pattern also works very well when weighted. Both these flies should be tied in various colours and sizes to match the naturals.